Sometimes All It Takes Is a Sentence

From an article about a coffee cake in today's Food section:

The firm-but-tender streusel crumble rippling over the silky cake creates a wonderful sweet, a cake that has a certain deliciously dependable, heirloomlike quality.

There's the general tendency toward the purpling of prose in contemporary food writing, and then there's the idea of an heirloom coffee cake. I don't know about you, but I'd rather inherit tomato seeds than a coffee cake.